Luxor
My passion for the art and architecture of Ancient Egypt, grows with every visit. I am fortunate to be able to share this experience with my wife, and personal tour manager, Janet. Through her positions as chairman of Sussex Egyptology Society, and tour manager of a leading archaeology led travel company, I have been privileged to meet many of the world's leading Egyptologists.
Luxor is a good place to start my introduction to this unique, North African country. It's very difficult to be brief about Egypt, so when time permits, I will create a link to a more in depth explanation of my next bold statement. Simply; 'The Ancient Egyptians' perfected the art of sculpture, and its been a downhill creative journey ever since'! But, what about the Ancient Greeks and Michelangelo I hear you gasp. True masters no doubt, but when it comes to distilling a form down to it's very essence, the Ancient Egyptians win, chisels down. If you need convincing, go to Luxor Museum and pay homage to the statue of Thutmoses III (seen below right) and then go to the Cachette Hall to view the 16 statues excavated from the grounds of Luxor Temple in 1987. The study, understanding, and final simplicity of the render in stone, of these figures, is breathtaking. I feel much the same about the art, but this is a more complex issue, and I will have to save it for the future link.
On to Luxor, or Thebes as it was known in Ancient Egypt. It has been a tourist base for steamers since the 19th century. Many people rush through on modern cruisers and miss the charm and hidden corners of this busy, friendly city. 
Luxor Temple by day and by night
The West Bank of the Nile, known as the Theban Necropolis, has an amazing number of sites to be explored. These include the most famous tombs in the Valley of the Kings, where I have been privileged to join private openings of the Tomb of Seti I, and the huge tomb complex, KV5, the son's of Ramesses. The West Bank is also home to the Queens' Valley, through to the lesser visited Tombs of the Nobles, the Asasif Tombs, and all the associated mortuary temples. 
Akhenaton and Thutmosis III (Luxor Museum) The workers' village at Deir el-Medina with its artisan's tombs and houses, gives great insight into the life of the villagers that built the royal tombs. Medinet Habu is one of my personal favourites. 
Ramesses at Luxor TempleThis huge Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III is a structure second only in size to Karnak, and is well preserved with much original colour still on the walls. It has a massive mud brick enclosure wall and few people take time here to explore the outer areas. Seti I Temple is another often missed site, smaller but still being excavated and restored. 
Seti I Temple
Ramesseum The Ramesseum, Mortuary Temple of Ramesses II is of course the most popular made famous by the toppled colossi and Shelley’s sonnet Ozymandias. Hatshepsut's Temple at Deir el-Bahri is another site not to be missed a popular site but often completely empty in the late afternoon when cruise boat tourists have left for the day. I find this Temple particularly impressive viewed from the East Bank looking across the Nile, as the extensive restoration is not so obvious from this viewpoint.
Egypt isn't an easy country with its frustrating rules, friendly hustlers and tight security issues, and Luxor is no exception. It can drive me mad when I am there, but as soon as the plane takes off for home, I am missing it, and can't wait to return. My memories of walking along the Corniche with the sun's setting rays painting Luxor Temple a glowing pink gold, play over and over in my mind, as the lights of the city below grow fainter and finally disappear. 
Deir el Medina and tomb wall detail Shuroy
In your search for Ancient Egypt, never forget the Egypt of now. If you are really lucky on that Corniche walk, you may hear the sound of distant horns and drums. As they get closer, you can't fail to feel your heart beating a little faster as you hasten your steps to find the source of this frenzied activity. It's an Egyptian Wedding, or a least, the start of the reception.
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The bride and groom walk slowly along with family and friends behind, while in front, the video camera, with blinding lights that would do a football pitch proud, records their every expression and gesture. Total boredom, in the case of this little film I captured. But, the fantastic music, energy and excitement that is generated, can't fail to use up a few tissues. Don't miss it.
Back to earth and on to the temple complex at Karnak now with its new approach road and a clear view from the Nile to the Pylons. Much work is still being done at the site and I always take time to visit the open-air museum as there are some fine relief blocks in the garden area. 
Local houses fast disappearing from the West Bank Luxor Temple is also revealing more secrets and new picnic areas in the Midan El-Haggag are popular with locals on holidays and festivals. Walking through this area recently during an Eid holiday I was asked to join family picnics by several groups. 
A ride in a Caleche "Do you know how much?"Apart from museums and antiquities Luxor is a thriving and changing modern city and getting to know the local people is part of the delight of spending time in this lovely area.
Sadly, there is one thing you wont find in Luxor, or even the whole of Egypt; The inherited skills of artisans and craftsmen of the Ancient World. I have travelled extensively, and not one of the countless reproductions or artefacts offered today, bears witness to its stunning ancestry. Still, another good excuse to go back and see the real thing! 
The end of a perfect day
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